A key element for beautiful skin: Zinc

December 1, 2008 – 3:27 pm


This might be a less talked about ingredient but it has an important role in skincare and its benefits are numerous. Its main properties are astringent, healing, regenerating, anti inflammatory and generally strengthening for the whole immune system. Zinc is an essential mineral in overall health. In skin care products, the frequently used derivate of Zinc is Zinc Oxide.
Zinc will help the skin by contributing to the regeneration of skin tissue and by healing lesions, acne, and other types of skin conditions. Usually a wound that wouldn’t heal can be a sign of the lack of Zinc in your body. By supplying the necessary quantity of this mineral, the healing process can improve significantly. Zinc helps in the synthesis/production of collagen and the proper function of certain enzymes that are necessary for repairing the skin condition after a wound.
With its astringent qualities, Zinc can help restore oily skin problems and act as an anti-inflammatory. It can soothe and calm itches and rashes or even skin conditions like certain types of dermatitis. There is evidence that Zinc deficiency is what might actually cause these types of skin problems.
Another skin condition that Zinc is said to heal is acne. With its astringent and anti inflammatory qualities it contributes to healing breakouts but a direct link between this element and acne healing has not yet been established. However, It is known that Zinc can significantly help in skin problems such as dandruff.
One of the most important properties of Zinc is the natural sun screen quality: Zinc oxide can effectively block the UV rays and therefore it is often used in SPF moisturizers and lotions.
The best sources to get natural Zinc from: meat (oysters and red meat especially), eggs, milk, whole cereal, some vegetables like beans etc. Zinc’s action is very much boosted by the presence of Vitamin A and it is recommended to include such elements in your diet as they will help with the absorption of Zinc. Vitamin A also needs Zinc for proper delivery from the liver to the skin cells. As you know, Vitamin A is essential in skin care.
Overall, Zinc is very efficient in strengthening the immune system and plays an important role in various body functions, apart from generally supporting the growth of the human body. In skin care, this element is central in regeneration and healthy cell turnover.

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Stress and skin health

November 17, 2008 – 2:26 pm

There are many kinds of beauty as there are habitual ways of seeking happiness (Charles Baudelaire)

Stress is the underlying cause of most of the serious illnesses nowadays. Diabetes, heart problems, cancer, all of them are blamed on stress as a primary factor; psychological problems eventually lead to immune system breakdown, and from here to serious problems there’s just one step. Stress can affect anyone, at any age, and it’s got its share of visible effects on people. Some of most visible problems are skin disorders.

The stress before the wedding day, before the prom night, before a public appearance … this is what causes those unpleasant acne flare-ups at the moment they are least expected (or desired)!

The effects of stress on our skin are continuously being researched and there is a major interest in finding ways to stop them. Frequently, acne is the specific skin disorder most linked to stress. Apart from this, premature aging, skin eruptions and flare-ups of other skin conditions are said to be highly influenced by stress levels.
Physical and psychological signs of stress include: headaches, cramps, muscular pain, palpitations, skin eruptions, difficulty breathing, digestive/eating disorders, insomnia, fatigue, irritability, anxiety, depression, irrational behavior, anger. There should be no wonder about how our body needs to put up with such symptoms. The mechanism of stress is not complicated yet its effects are fast and complex: stressful situations cause adrenal (suprarenal) glands to increase the adrenaline secretion. This way, the adrenal gland tries to regulate the stress response through the synthesis of adrenaline and cortisone. This increases blood pressure, heartbeat rate and muscular contractions. Metabolism functions slow down, the immune system response is diminished and all cellular functions are perturbed.
Skin, just like other parts of our body, reacts to these changes. The hormonal response of the body during stressful times can trigger excess oil production in the sebaceous glands and this causes sebum buildup in your pores and then, inevitably leading to acne breakouts.

Dealing with “stressful” skin problems Topical treatments only address one side of your problem, which is the visible side (external). The second aspect and probably the most important one is healing the condition from the inside and trying to remediate the stress you are subjected to every day. This is not possible most of the times, as the cause of stress can hardly be eliminated. But the stress response of your body can be controlled.
Seeking relaxation and enjoying those priceless moments of peace and quiet should become a daily routine for a few minutes. There is no cosmetic treatment better than happiness. When dealing with stress, follow at least a few of these rules: take your breaks, work out or have a walk every day, spend some time outdoors, get enough sleep, eat healthy meals, try some planning ahead and avoid unexpected situations.
On the exterior side (topically), skin can be helped with nourishing ingredients and basic everyday care. Your routine should include ingredients that clean, exfoliate, reduce inflammation and hydrate. From the inside out, the vital element is water. Without proper hydration, skin is not able to repair or regenerate and the cell turnover is slow. Cellular water (the water we manage to retain at cellular level) is the essence of a healthy body and a healthy skin.
Avoiding high levels of stress will help you achieve healthy skin and avoid premature aging signs, but most of all, keep you away from many other problems. Overall wellness shows its signs on your skin and leads the way to true beauty.

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Beautiful Skin Blog featured product of November:

November 7, 2008 – 5:00 pm

 

Your skin comfort this winter is very precious. By fortifying delicate skin and calming those flushes you can fight the unpleasant stinging and sensitivity, usually associated with cold weather and skin dehydration. Try the special formula of the Murad Recovery Treatment Gel – with Peppermint Extract and Zinc Oxide, it will provide the much needed relief and will prevent redness.
Peppermint is the oldest medicine known to people. It has great healing properties because of the menthol oil essences; it is highly recommended in digestive problems or for inhalations in colds, asthma, bronchitis. Menthol relieves muscular pain, stress, headaches and migraines.
Peppermint is generally an excellent antibacterial and antiseptic agent, widespread in toothpaste or breath fresheners, but also included in many skin care products and topical treatments. It can prevent and heal acne and blackheads if used in moderate concentrations. Its soothing, calming properties make it ideal for irritated skin; its tonic effects recommend it for dull, tired skin and for excess oil control.

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What do the most common skincare ingredients do?

October 31, 2008 – 4:08 pm

Reading a label and understanding WHY a product is good for you can be difficult if you are not used to skin care and cosmetic terminology. While most of the ingredients are not as bad as they sound, you must be aware of their origin and role in your skincare regimen.
Here’s a short list of frequently found ingredients in your skin care products:

Witch Hazel – also called Hamamelis, is an efficient astringent and a soothing agent
Emollients - these are substances that soften and hydrate the skin
Humectants – ingredients that attract water in the cells
Butylene Glycol – humectant used in dry/sensitive skin moisturizers
Propylene Glycol – humectant that penetrates the skin easily, lubricant, an efficient moisturizer
Isopropyl alcohol – a strong drying alcohol used in cleansing formulas to remove excess oil. It can be a bit harsh on any skin if overused.
Azulene – hydrocarbon derived from chamomile flower, soothing agent; it is usually blue
Chamomile – antimicrobial agent, soothing agent for the skin (wounds, infections, inflammations)
Salicylic Acid – antibactarial, exfoliant agent
Sodium PCA – a natural moisturizing and emollient ingredient (it is of vegetal origin)
Ceramides – lipid materials that protect against cellular water loss; can be obtained synthetically too
Glycerin – humectant, with strong water retaining properties
Fatty Acids- derived from plant or animal fats, used as lubricants in cosmetics, excellent skin emollients
Sunflower Oil – Good source of Essential Fatty Acids, hydrating, non-comedogenic
Phosholipids – these are naturally moisturizing humectants found in skin layers; water binders
Dimethicone – it is a silicone emollient (derived from silica, a substance that occurs naturally in sand and stone); silicones are often used instead of fatty type emollients
Linoleic Acid – essential fatty acid – also called Vitmain F, antioxidant, prevents dryness
Petrolatum – an oil derivate, emollient, anti irritant; prevents moisture loss
Evening Primrose Oil – derived from evening primrose flowers; excellent source of Fatty Acids, including linoleic acid; used to treat eczema and very dry skin
Citric Acid – it is a betahydroxy acid (BHA) used as a Ph adjuster, natural preservative, but can also be used as a mild exfoliant; it adds a sour taste to food
Allantoin – derived from the comfrey root; usually added to moisturizers for its soothing properties
Hyaluronic Acid – hydrophilic agent with excellent moisturizing properties; great in anti-aging treatments
Collagen – protein that lies in the top of the skin layers and binds water and also helps to prevent water loss
Elastin - protein in connective tissue and skin that is elastic allowing body organs to stretch, helps prevent water loss.
Parabens – preservatives found in cosmetics and food, with anti-bacterial properties
Coenzyme Q10 – enzyme and antioxidant that occurs naturally in the skin; its presence decreases with aging. It has revitalizing properties for the cells and the entire body.

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Comedogenic vs non-comedogenic: skin deep

October 23, 2008 – 3:17 pm

A label fact that rapidly increases a product’s reliability: “non-comedogenic”. This often helps you decide in favor of a certain skincare product when you buy it and it is, next to “oil free”, the formula that sells well. Usually, you see this on labels of moisturizers, foundations (liquid and powder), concealers and various make up products. These are the products that, normally, are most likely to contain comedogenic ingredients; including them in the “non- comedogenic” class makes them safe for problem skin and generally all types of skin.We can define “comedogenic” as the tendency of a topical ingredient/formula to increase the buildup of dead cells in follicles, eventually leading to comedone formation and acne eruptions. Clogged pores develop comedones under the skin surface and these are the starting point of breakouts, blackheads and other skin problems.
The black list of ingredients that are often comedogenic is not short at all:

Emollients - With waxy or sebum like textures, these ingredients are actually derived from fats/waxes of both animal and vegetable origin. They have a heavy texture and this makes them not suitable for skin, as it already produces its own sebum.

Oils (natural and artificial) - Often used as moisturizing agents in various skin care products. Most of them, either vegetable or animal, ARE comedogenic. Some of the most harmful are coconut and cocoa butter, grape seed oil, olive oil, sesame oil and to a lesser degree safflower oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil.
“Oil Free” cosmetics promise to offer you an oil free product but this can be easily misleading. It might be the preferred selling line of cosmetics producers but the reality is that natural oils are often replaced by synthetic oils that may harm the skin even more than natural ones like mineral oils or sunflower oil (which are non-comedogenic). However both groups present comedogenicity potential and ingredients must be carefully analyzed. Wheat Germ oil is one of the most comedogenic natural oils

Other Waxes /Fats - Beeswax, Lanolin Wax… they are comedogenic and should be used with precautions in skincare especially by people with acne problems. Petrolatum is non comedogenic.

Botanicals – You thought botanicals are the ideal ingredient for your skin? There are botanical ingredients that cause comedone formation so you should avoid them especially algae extracts and chamomile. Rely on Aloe instead; Aloe gels are excellent for all types of skin.

Fatty Acids - This is the most comedogenic group of cosmetic ingredients. They are used to give products a creamy fluid consistency. Fatty acids examples: lauric acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, capric acid.

Esters - These derive from the combination of alcohols with fatty acids. Their presence can be quite tricky as they don’t feel as oily as fatty acids, in a product formula . A rather scientificl list of esters includes: isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, sorbitan oleate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl linoleate, etc

Lanolin - It is sheep sebum extracted from wool. A very common ingredient in cosmetics mostly used for its excellent emollient properties. The Fatty Acids in lanolin can cause acne eruptions especially to those with acne prone complexion but as long as it is used in diluted concentrations it should not cause problems to normal skin. The most dangerous are the lanolin derivatives (lanolate)

Red Dyes (D&C Dyes) -Red tints and pigments in cosmetics (blush, eye shadow, lipstick, skincare products, powder ) are the most troublesome ingredients. Apparently not harmful, they are very comedogenic as they technically derive from coal tar. They are labeled with numbers e.g. D&C Red # 3, #4, #16 etc. Almost every dye of this type is comedogenic. The more red the color,the more red dye used. Because of the irritant potential, coal tars are not used in eye shadow and should not be used around eyes. It is better to avoid cosmetics containing such ingredients and prefer the organic pigments (carmine). Most of the organic pigments and extracts are non comedogenic.
Acne Cosmetica (=cosmetic acne) is the name for acne caused by the use of comedogenic skincare & cosmetic products. Red dyes often cause this type of acne - people who use blush, they are more likely to have bumpy skin on the cheeks.

Add to your black list -vitamin E (tocopherols), vitamin A Palmitate, emollient pressing agents (the ones used to make pressed powders, blush, etc), fatty alcohols, Azulene (derived from Chamomile), Talc.
Safe list - Parabens (preservatives used in cosmetics) are not comedogenic and have a low irritation potential ; Glycerin, Allantoin, Propylene Glycol, Iron Oxides, Kaolin, Zinc Stereate, Jojoba Oil, Oxybenzone (sunscreen), Petrolatum, Sorbitol (sugar alcohol); some of these are only mildly comedogenic and generally would not cause problems to normal skin types.

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Parabens under your skin

October 14, 2008 – 11:42 am

These are not natural ingredients, parabens are just some chemical compounds who managed to provoke controversy in the cosmetics world and be dreaded by a certain amount of people. Parabens are still being the subject of a heated debate in the beauty industry at this time, both opponent sides bring strong arguments but the troublesome ingredient remains one of the most efficient and most used preservatives in cosmetic products, since the beginning of the 20th Century.

On the other hand, some people don’t even know what parabens really are and therefore completely ignore them. They are nothing but synthetic preservatives without which many beauty products (cleansers, lotions, shampoos, shaving gels, toothpaste, soaps, moisturizers etc) would probably not even last for more than a few days.

What are Parabens?
Parabens are a group of chemicals largely used as preservatives in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food products. They are in fact derivates of the para-hydroxybenzoic acid and usually are used in mixtures of 2 or 3, to ensure proper protection against a wide range of microorganisms that may contaminate the product.

Some of the most common parabens are:
Methylparaben (E218) – This is a non toxic preservative derived from benzoic acid which is approved for use as an additive in foods. It is effective against fungi and bacteria and a mold inhibitor. It is also widely used in cosmetics. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) included Methylparaben on the list of substances considered safe, non irritating and non toxic. It can still cause allergic reactions for some people.
Ethylparaben (E214) – it is a synthetic anti microbial preservative found in cosmetics; it is efficient against bacteria; in some cases it can produce allergies and irritations to the people who use cosmetics containing Ethylparaben. Generally not recommended for consumption by children.
Propylparaben (E216) – an antifungal preservative used in food and pharmaceuticals; it can occur as a natural substance found in plants but it is produced synthetically for use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and foods. Generally not recommended for consumption by children.
Butylparaben - a substance used for artificial flavoring in food. It is one of the preservatives commonly found in cosmetics but it was also linked to some health issues like the decrease in testosterone levels. This is still being investigated.
Isobutylparaben – a less common paraben but still found in some cosmetics (and generally makeup products); it is a derivate of isobutyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid. It is usually found in facial moisturizers, sunscreen and anti aging lotions, lip-liners, mascara, foundation and face cleanser (including exfoliants)
Less common paraben names on the labels include derivates like Benzylparaben and Isopropylparaben

What is the controversy?
Some studies in the past suggested parabens from cosmetic products are responsible for the development of some tumors and cancers. One of the most shocking studies suggested that parabens from antiperspirants and deodorants lead to breast cancer, by migrating to breast tissue, as one of the studies revealed the existence of parabens in breast tumors. It was suggested that parabens accumulate in tissue over time but complementary research has proven parabens from skin care products do not accumulate in body tissues. With all the “evidence”, this was not considered to be relevant enough so further studies are being carried out.
Parabens used as preservatives in food are not being overlooked and carry the blame of causing diverse health issues including digestive cancers. As no official research has proven this yet, other concerns were raised, this time on infants’ development, as parabens occurring in breast milk in certain amounts could affect their health.
The most common issue is probably the potential of allergic reactions that some parabens might trigger, because some people may be allergic to these preservatives, so extra caution is required when using cosmetics, especially from people with skin sensitivity.

An expert opinion?
The current scientific research shows that exposure to parabens through skin care products does not increase health risks. The dose used in cosmetics and food is not significant enough to cause health problems, accumulate in tissue over time and lead to severe illness. The CIR Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, which is an impartial panel of experts) reviewed these ingredients and found parabens to be safe as cosmetic ingredients as long as they are being used in safe concentrations (standards imposed are to be respected by manufacturers). CIR Expert Panel assessed the safety of these ingredients and declared them non toxic, non carcinomous (non cancerous), non irritating and non sensitizing.

It is probably up to everyone to identify any sensitivity to these compounds and use cosmetics suitable for their skin. Once more, a label should be our first contact with a product. Parabens are efficient preservatives and great anti bacterial agents that will ensure the quality of your cosmetic product and preserve it from a large variety of microorganisms.
There are alternatives and many skin care companies now create paraben –free products, not because they are a danger for population but because of the demand. Extra caution is necessary again because preservative free products increase the chances of microorganisms contamination while other preservatives used to replace parabens (the product is paraben free but this doesn’t exclude preservatives totally) could have the same side effects and represent a real danger for your health.

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The Water Principle

October 7, 2008 – 2:09 pm

The Water Principle is a revolutionary theory developed by Dr. Murad - renowned dermatologist, pharmacist, patent holder, researcher and author of Wrinkle Free Forever and The Cellulite Solution. In his practice and from his experience with thousands of patients, Dr. Murad argues that one of the common causes of skin problems, from acne to forms of cancer, is water loss. His Water Principle is about maintaining the optimal hydration at the cellular level and preventing water loss.

Water is certainly known to be the essence of life. As explained by Dr. Murad, it is not about the water we drink and provide to our body, it is about the water we keep. Keeping moisture in our cells is the principle of overall health and effective skin care. When cells don’t have the optimal hydration, they cannot function correctly. Furthermore, this leads to tissue damage (aging) and all the rest of the problems associated with dehydrated skin (wrinkles, dryness, redness, sensitivity etc)
To provide and retain moisture in the cells, drinking water is not necessarily the answer to hydration. The Water Principle is about providing cells with water and keeping it there to make sure the cells can function correctly at full capacity. There are cell-hydrating nutrients that, included in the daily diet in certain amounts, will help to keep the water we drink within the cells.

With aging, our cells and tissue lose water but with it, our body also loses the capacity to hold and utilize the water within the cells. Part of the water that is not utilized is stuck in between tissues of the body causing visible swelling, puffiness, fluid retention. Getting that water back in the cells is one aspect of skincare that is the key to many problems.
Hydrating cells from the inside is possible with a few dietary changes and including certain ingredients in your every day diet. If water is correctly utilized by your body, changes like diminished wrinkles, dryness, breakouts, cellulite, improved suppleness and tone, can be quite visible.

The Key nutrients to help you maintain the water content in your cells are:
• Glucosamine - it increases the water content and helps strengthen the dermis
• Amino Acids - encourage the formation of Collagen and Elastin
• Phosphatidylcholine and Lecithin for the cell walls structure
• Antioxidants (Pomegranate Extract, Goji Berry Extract, Vitamins C and E, Grape seed Extract, Co-Enzyme Q10) to protect against free radical damage
• Essential Fatty Acids such as Flaxseed Oil and Fish Oil to lock in moisture
• Anti-inflammatory ingredients such as Zinc and Aloe Vera to soothe irritations

Taken regularly, in the right combination, these supplements can increase the water content, improve the skin appearance in a short time and also improve the overall body health. Incorporating these elements in your diet ,coupled with topical skincare (based on anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories and hydrators) can guarantee a healthy, young looking skin and postpone the appearance of aging signs and symptoms for a long time

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Hormonal aging and your skin

September 30, 2008 – 2:29 pm

beautiful face

Hot flashes, dry skin, palpitations, mood swings and irritability, trouble sleeping, overall body changes and possibly….back to acne. Menopause can be a tough time for some and it can take its toll on appearance as well. Psychologically, it can be quite discouraging to get back to the same teenage problems you had long time ago, but this is a little different. And this time, most of the changes are permanent. Dryness, loss of elasticity, dull complexion and breakouts are just a few of the most common transformations.

Skin changes. Irremediably
Changes can be quite significant: tone and texture change, dryness replaces softness. Skin becomes dryer as it loses water with age (our body is 75 % water at birth but as we age, we lose the water from our cells and tissues, so by middle age, only 50% of our body weight is represented by water). The water loss is not easily controllable as this is a quite natural process.
Deep wrinkles form at this later stage because of the lower level of hydration. Water loss can make spider veins visible and rosacea develops much easier. Because of the dryness, skin becomes itchy, hair gets thinner and fingernails break easier. Not only face skin is affected, but the entire body: arms and legs, hands, chest - skin dries out and loses elasticity.
Though skin aging is natural and an inevitable part of growing older (no one can actually stop it) improvement is possible and the visible signs can fade with proper care. Anti–aging solutions include anti wrinkle creams or cleansers, age spot removing lotions, special eye creams, plus make up specially designed to hide aging imperfections (which works only on mature skin and not on the young one as well). Intense moisturizing must provide hydration to the skin but also lock in moisture, at the time when this is most precious. The optimal solutions address specific, targeted needs like genetic aging, so other types like environmental aging products will not target the same kind of problem.
As skin gets 80% of its beauty from the inside, a healthy life style and a good diet can be considered the key solutions for the eternal aging problems. Fatty Acids, vitamins, Zinc, antioxidants and vegetal oils in your daily meals will make your skin resilient and provide hydration from the inside. Maintaining an exercise regimen and getting enough sleep every day will help restore the appearance of skin and slow down the aging signs.

Acne again?!
At the “who gets acne” question earlier on this blog, one of the answers was: women during menopause (including pre and post menopause stages) can be subjected to acne because of the hormonal balance shifts, that can eventually lead to breakouts among other skin disorders. Fluctuations in estrogen and progesterone levels leave their mark on the skin, along with a surplus supply of oil, dead skin cells and facial hair.
Using exfoliators, maintaining a proper diet and the optimum level of hydration can overcome the severity of breakouts but menopause acne can be a common problem.
You can keep hormonal balance under control with medical supervision and you should always try to keep your skin clean and clear. Topical solutions might be of great help and it is recommended to try topical acne medication as well. The three basic steps of skincare should be strictly followed: cleansing/toning, then exfoliating (which will also help with fine lines and wrinkles) and moisturizing (great help for your dehydrated skin). Exfoliation with AHAs is most suitable, but also gentle, for mature skin (read about Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid). Protect skin from the sun radiation with UV protection lotions and nourish it with ingredients like phyto-estrogens and vitamins. And never forget the most important rule, internal hydration: a hydrated skin will respond much better to treatments and will heal faster.

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Mission Exfoliation (II): Lactic Acid

September 22, 2008 – 4:18 pm

Some say it is the best of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): it is for sure one of the most effective ones, largely used in skincare, especially in exfoliating products. It is derived from milk and is formed by natural fermentation. While Glycolic Acid proved to be a little harsh in concentrated treatments and most suitable for normal to oily skin, Lactic Acid is recommended for those with sensitive skin. Its action is milder and generally well tolerated by all skin types.

Although gentle, it can still perform its basic “exfoliator” duty: it removes dead cells buildup on pores, improves skin texture, dissolves impurities and encourages rapid cell turnover. Lactic Acid is not toxic and can be well tolerated by skin, even in larger amounts. In concentrations over 10% it exfoliates very well even the roughest parts of the body.The Lactic Acid peel is one of the best treatments for hyper-pigmentation and aging signs; it gently exfoliates, leaving a hydrated, smooth and resistant skin. In anti aging procedures, it softens the skin and helps reduce fine lines. Used daily in low concentrations (the usual cosmetic products concentration), it will not harm the skin and not cause irritations like other exfoliators.
Its action is very similar to that of Glycolic Acid, but with a plus of gentleness: it works by dissolving the lipids that hold the dead skin cells together, revealing the new level of skin cells. This new layer of cells is more sensitive so it’s recommended to stay away from direct UV radiation for a while and use a minimum SPF of 15 for protection every time you go outside.

You can find Lactic Acid in many exfoliating skincare products, especially the ones for dry, mature or sensitive skin. If cosmetic products are not what you prefer, then there is always a 100% natural way: for the same benefits of lactic acid peels, simply use organic whole milk yogurt on the clean skin and let the lactic acid work for a few minutes. Rinse and then apply your regular toner/moisturizer.

 

Our recommendation for clear, smooth skin with Lactic & Glycolic Acid:
Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser - a gentle exfoliator that cleanses and retexturizes without drying out the skin

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Expiry dates: from product label to skincare reality

September 12, 2008 – 3:35 pm

Using cosmetic products and knowing how to care for your skin requires some minimal cosmetic “education”. You’ll even need this when reading a product label, because understanding it might prove more difficult in the absence of a clear expiry date; ingredients alone suddenly require extra knowledge from the potential customer.

With or without an expiry date. When no expiry term is given, you have to consider all the ingredients of the product and, based on common knowledge, use it only for a certain amount of time depending on the quality of the listed ingredients and their type. Are they of chemical origin or botanical? Are there anti-oxidants? Are there enough preservatives?

With an expiry date imprinted on the package, things should be quite clear and easy: you can use the product until THAT date. But this is not the best skin care idea in practice. The expiry dates on the package are usually meant to make the purchase act safe for the consumer (just making sure the product on the shelf is not expired) but not meant to make its use safe as well.
Once opened, other laws apply.

Opened or unopened. Most of the skin care products last between three to twelve months after being opened, even if the imprinted expiry date is years ahead. When not stored in the right conditions, one to three months is the adequate term of use for lotions and moisturizers. After this time, the product loses its properties, effectiveness and may even cause skin issues. That’s why it is recommended to use the product immediately after opening and stop using it in a few months, even if not completely finished.
Make sure to check the product ingredients as well: oils and botanicals (or compounds of vegetal origin) will shorten the efficiency span of the opened product.

Unopened, most cosmetics and skin care products generally have a shelf life of 2-3 years. The exception is mineral make-up, because their ingredients are not easily degradable; if they contain any trace of degradable compounds like botanicals, the products have a regular shelf life.
Using cosmetic products after the recommended time would increase the risk of contamination with bacteria and other microorganisms that develop in your make up or moisturizers. The effectiveness of the active substance decreases significantly after a while and the product could simply not work anymore; it can even cause skin problems (inflammations, allergies, irritations, acne, drying out, rashes etc). It was previously mentioned that storing the product in the right conditions is essential, otherwise the recommended usage time would hardly exceed a month.

Storage. A first big mistake most of us make is keeping all cosmetic care products in the bathroom – actually, there isn’t a worse place for storage in the entire house: constant humidity and heat, temperature changes, a perfect environment for oxidation, chemicals alteration, bacteria or germs. In an attempt to avoid this, some people snap the skin care products off the bathroom shelves and put them in the fridge. This is not a good option for most of the cosmetics and it will not prolong the life of the product: the low temperatures or the sudden temperature alternation can damage the formula of some products like foundations, moisturizers, powders, lotions. So what to do?

Perfect storing conditions include dark, dry and cool places (not too cool!) or even constant room temperature but away from direct sunlight. If a product smells, feels or looks different in color or consistency, it is better you throw it away and never use it again. Replace old products with new ones if you intend to still use them after a few months. Read the labels and make sure you understand the ingredients. Don’t try to fix old cosmetics by adding water, oil or other ingredients.

Here’s a general time line for using cosmetics: moisturizers, lotions and oil free foundation – never exceed one year; mascara and SPF lotions – 3 to 6 months; cream based concealers or cream eye shadow – use 12 to 18 months after opening; eye and lip liner pencils, lipstick, gloss, fragrance, powder foundation and eye shadows or blush will last up to 2 years.

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